Note: I will try to keep this post updated with more information and photos.
Specifications from the owner’s manual:
- Oil weight: 10W-40
- Oil capacity: 3.3 quarts (3.1 liters)
Tools and supplies you will need
- 4 quarts of oil
- Oil filter
- Oil filter wrench (On older cars with lots of access, you could often gorilla the filter off with your hands or a chisel and hammer, but the VFR puts the filter tucked away tightly, so I don’t recommend doing this without an oil filter wrench.)
- 5mm hex key (also called a hex wrench, an Allen® key, or Allen® wrench; they’re all they same tool)
- 17mm wrench or socket
- Optional: Various socket wrench extenders to make the job easier. As mentioned, the oil filter is a bit recessed, so an extender (3″ or so) might help reach it.
- Torque wrench (Sort of optional; if you’re a pro, you can estimate the correct force.)
- Sealing washer (You may be able to get away with reusing the one on there; the manual specifies replacing the washer every other oil change.)
- Container to catch the old oil. Please, never, ever throw oil away in the trash or down the drain. Doing so will harm the environment and could poison or kill animals or fish. Find out where to recycle used motor oil.
Detailed steps to change the oil
- Obviously, make sure that you have the proper tools, enough oil, an oil filter, and something to catch and hold the old oil.
- Make sure that you can unscrew the oil filler cap. No point of getting all set up only to find that the oil filler cap is stuck or something.
- Now, park the motorcycle on firm, level ground. Put the motorcycle up on the center stand.
- Start the motorcycle, and let it run for a few minutes (3 to 5 minutes should do the trick; longer if it’s cold outside, shorter if it’s warm) to warm up the oil so that it flows out more easily. Be careful with parts of the engine and exhaust that may now be hot.
- Remove part of the fairing so that you have access to the oil filter and oil drain plug:
- From the left side of the fairing, remove the three hex bolts.
- From the underside of the fairing, remove the two plastic clips that secure the left and right sides of the fairing. (See the video below for a close-up.)
- From the left, inner fairing, remove the two bolts that connect the inner and outer sections of the fairing.
- Now pull the fairing away a bit, just to make sure that you will have access to the oil drain plug and oil filter.
- Place an oil pan under the oil drain plug to catch the old oil as it comes out.
- Unscrew the oil filler cap. Unscrew the drain plug (also called the crankcase drain bolt) and sealing washer, making sure not to drop the plug or washer. Put the plug and washer aside.
- Remove the oil filter. You may need to use a filter wrench, or just unscrew it backyard-mechanic style with big locking pliers, or other tools. But it’s generally better to be gentle so that you don’t strip or stress any of the parts.
- Prepare the new filter by rubbing a thin coat of oil on the new gasket.
- Install the oil filter by screwing it on by hand. Tighten firmly by hand. Now tighten the oil filter with a wrench to 20 lbf-ft (26 N-m or 2.7 kgf-m).
- Screw the drain plug back in. Tighten to 22 lbf-ft (29 N-m, 3.0 kgf-m)
- Add approximately 3.3 quarts of oil. You may need more if your filter is larger (Remember, oil goes into the filter.).
- Wait a few minutes and check the oil inspection window to make sure that the oil is between the upper and lower marks in the window. Be sure that you check the oil with the motorcycle on the center stand, not the side stand; if you check it on the side stand, the oil will slosh over to one side and appear to be almost empty.
- Screw the oil filler cap back on firmly.
- Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes.
- Stop the engine and wait several minutes.
- Check for leaks. If there are leaks, double-check everything to make sure it’s tight.
- Re-install the fairing.